My first visit to Turkey in 2005 had been near the top of my wish list for many years.  I didn’t take a laptop with me then, but I did keep a journal of that first trip, where all my senses were piqued and my mind like a sponge.

Since then, I have worked in the travel industry and made it my business to visit Turkey once, usually twice a year.  Mostly, I escort a group and love to share with them the knowledge I have gained over the year, including  requests where one can find the best/organic/cheapest/handwoven towels, turkish delight, silk scarves, jewellery etc.

This time last year, I had the privilege of escorting a wonderful group of women.  We had a wonderful time and harmony and laughter were the prevalent themes.  It was a busy time for me because at the same time, I had another 13 clients in Turkey, some couples as well as another group of women, so I needed to stay on top of several itineraries, all unique and designed to accommodate different interests.

Simit: a Turkish bagel of sorts

I loved Turkey from my very first visit and continue to regard it as one of my favourite countries.  There is so much history to learn and to ponder. People are friendly and kind, the food is delicious and personally, I am fascinated by the culture and lifestyles.  In May this year, I spent a week visiting two new hotels, including The Edition, and restaurants, checking location, rooms, food and service.  After all, how can I recommend somewhere if I don’t know it?  And now that other world-class hotels are moving into Turkey (Shangri La, Aman Resorts and Raffles) there will be more competition for Four Seasons, whose Sultanahmet location in a former prison remains my all-time favourite.

My association with Virtuoso helps me to orchestrate dreams for my clients.  Through my world-wide network of partners, I am currently working on an itinerary for a party of four that includes Turkey, Jordan and Israel, where they will see, experience and taste the best of each location; away from the crowds and according to their interests.

Friendly people

Please, let me know if I can orchestrate your dream tour of Turkey.  If you need to know more, please click here

Virtuoso welcome amenities at Four Seasons Lisbon

I haven’t had the time to write very much lately, other than a tweet here and there and a posting on my Facebook page.  I love blogging but I love my work even more, and add to a busy schedule a home move, it becomes obvious why I am writing this at 12.52 am PST!

I have just returned from a one month business trip that included Madeira, Lisbon, Barcelona, Istanbul, Dubai and Perth, Western Australia.  I visited and reviewed new hotels and restaurants and re-established contact with suppliers to the luxury travel industry.  The world is changing so fast that I have to stay up to date with my recommendations!

Whenever I travel, I continue to work just as I would at home, but in awe of the ability of my partner, technology, to keep my client communications seamless.

Upon my return to Vancouver, I finalized the seemingly endless documentation for my clients who are travelling at the moment, and every day starting new files for those who wish to travel later in the year.  At this time, I have clients in South Africa, Turkey, Greece, Spain, Portugal and Holland and each client expects and receives the personal attention that comes with my role as a Virtuoso Travel Advisor.  You see, in this role, I get to create and execute Dreams – your Dreams.  I love my work and actually feel as though I travel the world every day – from my computer – as I stay in touch with, and work with, colleagues all over the world through Skype, telephone, Email, Twitter and Facebook.   All this takes time.

Building Dreams takes time – lots of time – as well as a healthy cocktail of patience  and perfection to pull all the pieces together.  Only then, when the final itinerary is approved will I rest a little.  Virtuoso coined the phrase:  ‘Return on Life.’  My job is to make it happen!

One last point … having built a successful specialization in Turkey as a destination, I am now doing the same for Portugal.  So far, I have spent a total of four months touring this beautiful and diverse country that offers beautiful historic sites, divine cuisine and excellent value for money.  And, while I am still learning about this lesser-known destination, during frequent visits, I can honestly say that the people I work with in that country, including those on the spectacular island of Madeira are top-notch professionals who are proud of their country and all it has to offer.  So, if you like history, excellent wine, locally produced  foods, and accommodation that ranges from farmhouse to luxury on the mainland and charming Quintas to luxury on Madeira Island, you will love this destination.  And Madeira is the perfect destination for escaping a chilly winter because the temperature rarely dips below 18 degrees or rises above 24 degrees.  All year around!  With sub-tropical flora and fauna and beautiful blue skies and warm ocean, it is a perfect option for a long-stay.   Ask me about long-term rentals if you prefer to stay in a Villa, apartment or family-sized home rather than an hotel.

I hope you have a wonderful Summer!

I love Turkey.  Its rich and colourful history, carefully preserved and shared with the world through its open palaces, mosques and UNESCO Heritage Sites, beckons North Americans more than ever.

In order to keep up with the ever-growing list of  hotels, and because I know that my clients like to stay at different types of hotels – from super-luxurious to small family-run –   I try to visit at least once, but more often twice a year.  During those visits, I inspect hotel rooms and restaurants, sample menus and seek new contenders.  I like to personally experience an hotel or restaurant before I recommend it or include it in one of my private tour itineraries.

As more world travellers seek to experience Turkey’s truly special combination of new and old, Asia and Europe, so the number of  local tour operators increases and generally speaking, those suppliers are both honourable and reliable and you will have an amazing trip.

However, when you book your trip to Turkey  through the Internet, how do you know who you are dealing with?  After all, a beautiful or seemingly professional web site, even with a more “luxury” feel to it  is not necessarily indicative of a company that honours its word or its commitments.

There are several sites that I have visited recently that look very chic and use clever words to excite the reader.  However, in at least one instance, I know from experience that there is no substance behind those words and that what you think you will get, is not necessarily what you will get.

Moreover, when the site gives you a sense that there are “travel counsellors” or others working with that company, check it out.  You may be surprised to find there is just one employee – the owner!  And that person runs another business or two, single-handedly.

Here are some tips, based on my experience, that I hope will help you to navigate the plethora of websites selling tours in Turkey.

1.  Don’t be convinced of credibility by a good-looking site!  They are a dime a dozen in template format!  Dig deeper …

2.  Read Terms & Conditions very carefully, keeping in mind that while it may look “proper”  it may have been copied from another company’s web site!  I found exactly that situation when I googled a few sentences from one site  – only to find the words (and format!) were identical to a competing company’s website.

3.  Research the reputation of the company.  I have worked with many different suppliers in Turkey and would be happy to share my experiences of the best – for all budgets – with you.  As well, contact your local Turkish Embassy or official Turkish Tourism Office.

4.  Don’t believe everything you read.  Check it out!  What does the term “luxury” mean to you?  To the tour operator?  Is it the same?

5.  Note if any information is vague or missing or links broken when you click through the site … why is it missing?  What should be at the end of that click?

6.  You won’t be able to see their books, but research will help you to identify financially stable companies.  If the company runs out of money after you have paid, some or all, how will you get your money back?  Also, how would that affect your holiday if it runs out mid-way through your trip?  I know of a situation where this happened.

7. Review TripAdvisor but keep in mind that you should consider the reviews of tour operators, hotels, restaurants etc. and not individuals. After all, that individual may not be around when you arrive. And just because that individual is likeable, it doesn’t mean that the service offered is up to the quality you expect.  Read between the lines of the reviews.

8. If the website has a name associated with it, google the name to see what else you may find.  For instance, if that luxury looking web site has any connection with budget or low-end businesses and you are seeking a luxury experience, you may like to consider how that might affect service delivery to you.  Of course, if budget is your mode of travel, you probably wouldn’t be looking at a luxury web site anyway.

9.  Before parting with any money, contact TURSAB the Turkish Association of Travel Agents, and ask if the agency you wish to book with is current with their membership and how you are protected in the event of bankruptcy by the Tour Operator or loss of deposit, funds etc.

10. Most tour operators are happy to provide client references.  Rather than simply accepting online “kudos” statements, ask for names of people you can contact and who travelled during the same year as you intend to visit.  Ask them, by email, Skype or telephone, when they stayed (situations change), which room they were in, how were the beds, bedroom sizes, whether bathrooms were clean (they usually are spotless in Turkey, but it’s good to ask …) how far away are shops, restaurants etc., is there public transportation close by, etc.  In other words, try to get a well-rounded reference that talks of the total experience. If possible, try to identify if that reference is from somebody who shares your travel style, e.g. backpacking, luxury, because then you will be speaking the same language, so to speak.

The wise do-it-yourself (DIY) traveller to Turkey will protect his or her hard-earned money by doing some thorough research before placing a tour deposit with a local (Turkey) tour operator through the Internet.  As I said earlier, Turkey is an amazing country with some of the most warm and friendly people you will ever meet.  As in every country, though, a little prudence goes a long way.

Please don’t hesitate to contact me if you would like help selecting a local tour operator.

Milk Dessert with Raspberry Sauce

I am both thrilled and saddened that Bozcaada, a rustic and charming Turkish island in the Aegean, has been voted the second favourite island destination in Europe by Conde Nast readers.  Thrilled because I visited the island earlier this month,  before it received the award and subsequent publicity, and -  inevitably -  an increase in traffic.  There were a few French people, but overall, the island was very rustic and a jewel of simplicity. I’m saddened because the secret is out!  By the way, Mykonos took the number one spot and coincidentally, I visited it on my honeymoon in 1969 when it, too, was quiet and unspoiled.  I’m sure I would notice a few changes there today.

Back to Bozcaada now …  This rustic and charming island is easily accessed by ferry from Cannakale.  We stayed in a small hotel close to the harbour where fishermen mended their nets and fishing boat traffic scuttled around.  We ate at local restaurants and I soon discovered one that met all my criteria for taste, presentation, ambiance, etc.  Lodos restaurant is  a family-run business that seems to know the recipe for contented customers!

Lodos Restaurant, Bozcaada

As we sat in the small dining room of the cute little building, just steps from the harbour, I felt as though we were sitting in the living room of a warm and welcoming home.  The owners and their sons seemed to be natural hosts, welcoming everybody as though they were family.  A fisherman came in with freshly caught fish and after some discussion and a discerning examination of his wares on the stainless counter in the kitchen, he left with a smile on his face and there were smiles on the faces of all who witnessed this refreshing suggestion of the merits of a more simple life.

When we ate our first meal there, I shared a dessert as I was very full after mezes and a delicious main course of fresh, grilled sardines.  The title of the dessert we ordered intrigued me – sutlu karadut – milk pudding with red mulberry.  I now call it Bozcaada Island’s Best Dessert Recipe!  When it came to the table, it was so pretty and we were so keen to taste it that I forgot to take a picture! Anyway, it was simply delicious – creamy, not too sweet with a rich red mulberry sauce drizzled over the top.  This was a dessert to remember!   So much so that after eating at another restaurant the following evening, we made our way back to this restaurant for dessert!  After ordering one each this time, I asked whether they would be willing to share the recipe.  Turkan and Nejat seemed thrilled and sat down together to write out the recipe.  I am sharing this with you in the hope that you will one day visit Lodos Restaurant on Bozcaada to thank them personally!

Recipe for Sutlu Karadut (Milk Pudding with Red Mulberry)

For 10 people

.5 litre full cream milk

.5 litre heavy cream

4level dessert spoonfuls of white sugar

2 (envelopes) of gelatine

4 lavender flowers

1 dessertspoon of chopped lemon (with rind on)

250 grm. white chocolate

Sauce

250 grams red mulberries (or other berries)

.50 grams of potato flour or two dessertspoons sugar if berries are not very sweet

One cup of red wine

4 sticks of cinnamon

2 stems of lavendar

Combine all pudding ingredients and bring to the boil, whisking gently.  Cool. Strain the liquid and discard the flowers, lemon etc.  Pour the custard into small ramekins or moulds and refrigerate.  Remove from refrigerator about one hour before serving.  Invert moulds and gently slide the dessert into the centre of a small white plate.

Heat the ingredients for the sauce.  Bring to the boil and reduce the sauce until it thickens slightly.  Remove the cinnamon sticks.  Cool.   Before serving, drizzle the room-temperature sauce over the top of the pudding and decorate the plate with lavendar flower stems.

Note:  I made the dessert (picture above) for friends last night and have adjusted the measures above, slightly.  In particular, I will use two envelopes of gelatine in future instead of the four originally suggested by my gracious hosts.  As well, I omitted the potato flour from the sauce as my frozen raspberries were a little tart, so instead I added some sugar.

About five miles from the Turkish coast is the Greek island of  Chios, reputed to be the birthplace of Homer and known for its export, gum mastic.

The resin has a unique and delicate aroma that is tapped from the bark of the mastic tree,a Mediterranean evergreen that is cultivated on the southern land of the island.

The legend of mastic dates back to Roman times, when women used its stems to freshen their breath and whiten their teeth.  Unlike commercial chewing gum, when I tried chewing a piece, my teeth felt really clean and my mouth fresh.  Aha … another truly natural product without sugar, preservatives or harmful ingredients!  

I hear that the best months for harvesting gum mastic are July and August, at which time the farmers start work very early in the day, making incisions in the trees.  Later, around the end of August, the crop of  transparent resin is collected and rinsed.  It is then spread out  to dry and cleaned for a second time, by hand.

Although I have only found the first mentioned, there are two kinds of mastic.  The perfect, top-quality crystals are called ‘dahtilidopetres’, (flintstones) and the soft ones with spots are called ‘kantiles’ (blisters.)  I bought the top-quality crystals in the small yellow box, above, and the price was about $9 CAD.

Today, mastic is cultivated in Asia Minor as well as in the Middle East.  Still, for Chios, the export of gum mastic continues to net the island a nice profit. As well as being used in cakes, desserts, ice-creams and other dishes (Engin Akin used a little in the chicken pilav we made together back in April), it is especially favoured in Arabic cuisine.  Mastic is also used in cosmetics.  I’m told that even hair products, toothpaste and fragrance with mastic as an ingredient are available.  This wonder-gum is also reputed to have antiseptic properties, and before modern medicine was hailed as a treatment for cancer, and gastro-intestinal problems.

Here, then, is the recipe for a gelato that I made over the weekend and which received rave reviews.  I would love to hear your thoughts on the delicate, unique flavour.

Cardamon, Mastic and Rosewater Gelato

1 tablespoon whole green cardamoms
300ml milk
300ml double cream
1 cinnamon stick
85g caster sugar
100ml rose water
1 teaspoon gum mastic crystals, crushed with 1 teaspoon caster sugar (optional)
200ml evaporated milk or double cream
dried rose petals (optional)

Crush the whole cardamoms in a pestle and mortar, take out the pods leaving the seeds then pound the seeds to a fine powder.

Place the milk and double cream in a saucepan, add the ground cardamom and cinnamon stick. Bring to the boil and simmer over a low heat, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has reduced by about a quarter to a rich creamy colour (it takes about half an hour).

Place the sugar and rose water in another saucepan and dissolve the sugar over a low heat until it becomes a thin syrup. Remove from the heat and cool.

When the milk and cream are ready, remove from the heat and stir in the crushed gum mastic (if using) and cool for about 15 minutes. Sieve the liquid and discard the solids. Add the evaporated milk and combine with the rose water syrup. Cool and chill.

Churn in an ice-cream machine until thick enough to scoop (if you haven’t got a machine, freeze the chilled mixture and whisk it every half hour or so.)

Serve with dried rose petals and savour the delicate surprise!