A painting of Xadrez restaurant, Machica

Xadrez, does not have a web site.  They don’t want one and don’t need one.

Isidro and his wife Anna, the charming owners of this seaside restaurant in Machico, have served their delicious regional specialties – using local products and “chemical-free” – to discerning Madeirans for 29 years. They don’t need more business because their customers are loyal – and many have been coming here to eat for 29 years! And after being warmly hosted for lunch yesterday, it’s not difficult to understand why.

Upon arrival, our host’s wife Laura – daughter of the owners – greeted us with a glass of “antibiotique” – a small glass comprising a delicate blend of  honey, tangerine liqueur (home-made?) and sugar cane liqueur.  Whoa! after just one sip, I knew why it was said to kill every germ … As we took our places next to the window, overlooking yet more spectacular scenery on this jewel of an island in the Atlantic, so the feast began! First, galado (dried fish from the tuna family), black olives and carn vinha rejalhos (pork cubes with garlic.) These appetizers were served with toothpicks and we simply “picked” and ate!  When the wine came to the table, our host, Samuel, explained that this was a wine he favoured, from the Allentejo region of Portugal.  I am still learning about the wines of Portugal and Madeira.  Next, bowls of steaming hot  Sopa de Trigo arrived and we tucked into this hearty wheat soup. Of course, there was the mandatory bread basket sitting close by, although as much as I love Portuguese bread, I decided to give it a miss as I sensed this was going to be a feastathon!

The next course was Bife atun con milho frito, a thick tuna steak cooked with garlic and served with maize cubes fried in olive oil, carrots, fresh runner beans and sweet potato. Delicious!   I was feeling quite full, but the food kept coming – with big smiles all around!  When I was asked if I would like “pudding” – an English term used to describe dessert, I replied that I would love to but … my hosts wouldn’t hear of it!  A plate with two large slices of pudding, one was Pudin de ovos (flan) and the other similar in appearance but with a bright red sauce atop, Pudin Pitanga. It looked similar to “flan” but had more of a mousse texture and a fruity flavour from the orange juice in the pudding as well as the delicious sweet-tart taste of the tiny red cherry, also known as  Pitanga.

Sated and ready for a nap, I thanked my hosts and practised my Portuguese thank-yous.  “Obrigada.” However, before I left, I was taken upstairs to an area where the hood of an indoor wood-burning oven (used for bread-making) had been transformed into the backdrop for a very ornate and special nativity scene.  In the foreground were bottles of liqueur as well as a cookie jar – another tradition I was told but alas due to a few language challenges, I failed to understand the significance of this particular tradition.

Nativity Scene at Xadrez Restaurant

As I left, Anna , kissed me on both cheeks, handed me a well-wrapped “specialty of the house”  a knuckle of pork, marinated for two days and roasted slowly for many hours, accompanied by sweet potatoes – for my dinner!   I felt as though they were family and vowed to cook for them one day.

I left with a distinct feeling that I will return to this restaurant.  Even if they don’t need any new customers, they have one here!

"Antibiotique"

Wine from Allentejo

Bife atun con milho frito

Pudin de ovos and Pudin Pitanga

Pitanga "cherries"

Pumpkin and Toasted Walnut Cake

Since my children were young, I have made variations of this Pumpkin cake with consistent success.  It is very quick and easy to make, is healthy, moist and works for any occasion, although it is especially appropriate for harvest time, Halloween and Thanksgiving.

Although I give measurements for this recipe below, feel free to substitute your favourite ingredients.  I once substituted cocoa for some of the flour and added almond chunks instead of walnuts.  Also, I prefer to bake mine in a bundt tin as it provides additional decorating/serving options (e.g. omit the icing and add a custard in the middle.)  For me, the fun is in the experiment.  You don’t know until you try!!

Cake Ingredients

• 1.5 cups brown sugar, honey,agave syrup or a combination

• 4 eggs

• 1 cup natural yogurt or unsweetened apple sauce

• 2 cups canned or cooked pumpkin

• 2 cups spelt, kamut, wholewheat, rice or your favourite flour

• 1 cup wanuts, chopped

• 2 teaspoons baking soda

• 2 teaspoons cinnamon

• Pinch of salt

Icing

• Half a cup of butter, softened

• 8oz organic cream cheese, ricotta or mascarpone

• Icing sugar to taste

• 2 teaspoons pure vanilla essence

Toast the walnuts lightly.  Combine all cake ingredients and blend thoroughly.  Pour into oiled pan and bake at 350 degrees fahrenheit for about one hour or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean.  Cool on a rack.  Prepare icing by combining ingredients and mixing until smooth.  Spread on cooled cake.  Decorate with pomegranates.

A hilarious adventure in anonymous fine-dining

Have you ever wondered how Food Critics avoid recognition?  How magazine editors feel when their clients stop advertising because of a poor review?  How Food Critics feel about what readers say? What it’s like to be married to, or child or friend of a Food Critic who is constantly assuming other identities.. all in the name of a day’s work?

Garlic and Sapphires by Ruth Reichl, published in 2005, is an engaging adventure for the reader who wants to tag along with the celebrated Food Critic of the highly acclaimed New York Times as she ventures out to eat in the best restaurants, a new character every day.  In order to execute her role anonymously she has to assume the identities of her many made-up characters.  Her thought processes and the ways in which she develops those characters – and their behaviours – provides plenty of food for thought and more than one belly laugh!  As do the reactions of restaurant staff when she attends, in-and-out of disguise, for her reservation!

I really enjoyed this book and will be reading the others, outlined on her web site. As well, you might like to know that Ruth has a series of programs at the Gourmet Magazine website. A final note … she provides some tasty recipes throughout the book and the magazine website also has lots!  Bon Appetit!